Virtual Hungary

Our popular virtual “Wine Wednesday” events continue with a 4-week visit to a country often overlooked – Hungary.

Hungary has a long tradition of producing fine wines including its most well -known the lusciously sweet Tokaji Aszu.  In addition, although the name was devalued during the communist era "Bull's Blood" historically was once ranked amongst some of the best red wine in the world.  Because of memories of mass-produced 1980s wines linger, modern "Bull's Blood", very much restored to its former glory is marketed under its Hungarian label of Bikaver.

Week 1 - Wednesday 9th July - Somlo

We start our Hungarian wine discovery at the Kreinbacher winery in Somlo near Lake Balaton.  From here we will sample two wines that are very much not what you would think of from Hungary.  Firstly a delightful award-winning, traditional method sparkling wine made from local variety Furmint blended with Chardonnay aged for over 2 years on lees.  A lovely bouquet of lime, flowers and stone fruits with a tantalising brioche aroma adding extra layers of complexity. Vibrant citrus fruits on the palate with rich notes of ageing on the lees. Subtle bubbles allow the minerality of the furmint grapes to shine, while the gentle mousse provides a long aftertaste of grapefruit and a touch of salinity.

Then also from Kreinbacher, an elegant white wine made from Hungarian variety of Juhfark. An attractive nose of citrus and sweet pear aromas. Herbs and spice on the palate, with refreshing acidity amplifying the flavours of citrus fruits and a hint of saltiness. Long mineral finish, soft and rounded mouthfeel.

• Kreinbacher Prestige Brut - Retail Price £32.00
• Kreinbacher Nagy-Somlói Juhfark 2022 - Retail Price £17.90

Week 2 - Wednesday 16th July - Szekszard & Villany

This week we venture to the South of Hungary into the Szekszard and Villany regions. 

Szekszard is very much red wine territory with great varietal wines from Hungary's prized Kekfrankos as well as blends featuring Bordeaux varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.  When these Bordeaux varieties such as these are combined with Hungarian Kekfrankos and Kadarka, the result is Bikaver (or "Bull's Blood) but these wines are a far cry from the ersatz versions from the 1980s.  Our Bikaver has intense aromas of freshly brewed espresso and grated dark chocolate, accompanied by a fruitiness of blackberries and ripe raspberries. It is a full-bodied wine with supple tannins, a round mouthfeel, poised acidity, and resplendent dark berry notes rounded out by the tertiary flavours of sweet spices and toasted notes from the oak barrel ageing.

To the South of Szekszard is Villany, the Hungarian home of one of my favourite varieties - Cabernet Franc.  The ones from Hungary are very different to those of the Loire Valley in France. Our example is intensely perfurmed with black and red fruits combined with vanilla and cedar from oak ageing.  Tannins are big and rich as is the body all backed up with a long complex finish.

• Szekszárdi Bikavér Premium 'Signum' 2021, Lajver - Retail Price £19.00
• Villany Cabernet Franc 'Lator' Maul 2019 - Retail Price £26.00 

Week 3 - Wednesday 23rd July - Sopron & Eger

Sopron is the most westerly of Hungarian wine regions being right up against the Austrian border.  Our wine from this region is a varietal Kekfrankos the most planted indigenous red variety.  Classic deep ruby with purple shades. Zesty acidity and medium tannins with a cavalcade of red and black fruit on the palate, rounded out by spicy notes from the oak barrel ageing. 

Eger, alongside Tokay, is the most famous Hungarian wine region, and although other regions do produce Bikaver, Eger is the region most associated with Hungary's flagship red wine.  Our example is from premium producer St Andrea and is a Bikaver Superior, with restrictions on yields and blending requirements.  It is a deep ruby colour. The very attractive, rich nose of blackcurrant, blackberry, and forest berries opens out to include forest soil and a floral touch. This is a fantastic, mouth-filling wine with well-integrated tannins and acidity and a long finish with a compelling volcanic and chalky minerality.

• Organic Soproni Kékfrankos 2022, Steigler -  Retail Price £18.50
• Merengo Egri Bikaver Superior 2021, St Andrea - Retail Price £32.50

Week 4 - Wednesday 13th August - Tokay

Finally we arrive in Hungary's famous Tokay region to sample not one but two of its iconic sweet wines - Tokaji.

Our first is a Tokaji Szamorodni, lighter in style than the Aszu.  These wines are produced using bunches of grapes some of which are botrytized (infected with noble rot) and some that are fresh rot-free grapes.  It is a deepening gold colour with an intensely floral aroma and a rich flavour of honey, orange peel, mango, and winter spices with a hint of botrytis. The natural acidity of the Furmint grape perfectly balances the natural sweetness of the wine, making this an easy-drinking choice set up for food pairing.

Our final wine is something very special a Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos from renowned producer Grof Degenfeld.  Prepare to be captivated by the luscious fragrance of apricot and ginger jam, peaches and cream, honeysuckle, and orange blossom with a lovely light touch of warming spice. The wine's assertive and imposing texture is complemented by a rich palate of candied and tropical citrus fruit, while a layer of new Hungarian oak adds toasted, woody notes. 2017 was an excellent aszú vintage, resulting in outstanding balance and poised acidity.

• Tokaji Szamorodni 2022, Tokajicum - Retail Price £11.70
• Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2017, Grof Degenfeld - Retail Price £45.00

This is an online event spread over 4 weeks, the cost does not include the wines (see below).  All sessions are recorded for you to watch again or in case you miss one of the live sessions.

We have partnered with specialists in all things Hungarian; Best of Hungary for these wines and all 8 wines can be bought directly from them by following this link for £195.00 including delivery.