Wine Masterclass: Calabria - a hidden Italian gem

The wines of Cirò, produced in the South-Eastern corner of Calabria facing Greece, have a rich history dating back 3,000 years or so. Originally the wine produced in this area was named Krimisa in homage to the victorious warriors awarded with this wine after winning the Olympics. The Greeks played a significant role in shaping the winemaking traditions of Cirò, influencing both the cultivation practices in vineyards and the actual winemaking process. In fact they introduced the Alberello ('bush') vine training system, a technique still in use today, in addition to teaching the Calabrians how to maximise the potential of their grapes. During this period, Calabria was a part of Magna Grecia, an extension of the Greek Empire.

When the Greeks’ influence came to an end, other civilisations colonised the South of Italy and Calabria became prey to the French, Spanish and Arabs. Consequently the wines of Cirò and Calabria at large saw a decline in popularity, a situation that persisted through subsequent centuries. The economic depression further exacerbated the plight of Cirò wines, as they were either sold in bulk or dispatched to the northern regions of Italy, particularly Piedmont, to bolster other wine varieties.

We had to wait until the beginning of the 2000s to witness new developments in these local wines, driven by a general renaissance of the region. Cirò wines finally began to regain popularity. In 2008, in opposition to the change in Cirò DOC regulations which introduced the possibility of using international varieties, a first group of winemakers was formed to defend the "real wines" of the area.

Join Giusy Andreacchio, a born-and-bred evangelist for the wines of Calabria, for this tasting at West London Wine School to discover some of the wines made using solely local varieties: Greco Bianco for whites and Gaglioppo for reds. These wines are made following simple winemaking and celebrate the traditional style of Ciro’, banning the use of barriques and exalting the group’s philosophy. This philosophy centres on limiting or completely avoiding the use of wood, opting for fermentation in cement tanks or stainless steel and applying extended ageing in the bottle whenever possible. The resulting wines are natural and show that innovation, combined with deep respect for tradition and for native grape varieties, can generate wines of exceptional quality, capable of telling the story and uniqueness of their terroir.

This tasing presents an excellent opportunity for students of WSET Level 3 and Italian Wine Scholar Unit 2 to broaden their knowlegde of an upcoming Italian wine region.

Wines on tasting (7):

• Cerminara, Calabria Bianco IGP 2022
• Tenuta del Conte, Ciro' Bianco DOC 2022
• Gianni Lonetti, Mel Rosato Calabria IGP 2022
• L'Arciglione di Cataldo Calabretta, Ciro' Rosato DOC 2022
• Vigneti Vumbaca, Ciro' Rosso Classico Superiore 2022
• A'Vita di Francesco de Franco, Il Rosso Calabria IGP 2021
• Sergio Arcuri Vini, Ciro' Rosso Classico Superior Riserva DOC ARIS 2020